Celebration of death

A man worships at the foot of a cross in the Grand Cemetery of Port-au-Prince, Haiti during Fet Gede. Fet Gede, or Fete Ghede, is a Haitian Vodun celebration of ancestors that culminates on November 1st and 2nd. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
Two women make offerings to the cross of Baron Samdi at the Grand Cemetery of Port-au-Prince, Haiti during Fet Gede. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
A Gede aligned with Baron Samdi stands on a cross above hundreds of worshipers on Fet Gede at the Grand Cemetery in Port-au-Prince, Haiti. People hand him cigarettes and cigars in tribute. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
A man offers a gourd of peanuts, rum, coffee, candles, dried fish, bread, candies, among other things, to a cross soon to be possessed by Baron Samdi. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
Maman Brigit oversees her cross and offerings during Fet Gede at the Grand Cemetery in Port-au-Prince. She receives offerings of rum, bread, peanuts, marigolds, coffee, candles, and peanuts. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
An evangelist walks through Fet Gede celebrations at the Grand Cemetery in Port-au-Prince, while condemning the crowd to an afterlife in Hell for their seemingly non-Christian practice. Vodou takes its form greatly from Catholicism as a way for forced converts to subvert the doctrine by disguising African deities and practices. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
Dozens of worshipers congregate around the black cross of the Baron, the first man to die there. Any wish or petition asked for on this day, Fet Gede, will be considered. People leave offerings of food, flowers, rum and candles. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
Worshipers surround the small black cross of the Maman Brigit, the first woman to die there. A People leave offerings of food, flowers, rum and candles, and Maman periodically sprinkles talc over the offerings. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
A Gede aligned with Baron Samdi stares chillingly through sunglasses with one lens, face covered in talc and safety pins perforating his cheeks. He assures affairs of the dead are well-run and oversees the celebration of Fet Gede. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
Dozens of worshipers congregate around the black cross of the Baron, the first man to die there. Any wish or petition asked for on this day, Fet Gede, will be considered. People leave offerings of food, flowers, rum and candles. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
A group of people look down on the celebrations during Fet Gede at the Petionville Cemetery. In the days, and sometimes weeks, around Fet Gede, there is lots of activity in the cemeteries. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
The cross of Maman Brigit receives offerings of rum, bread, peanuts, marigolds, coffee, candles, and peanuts. during Fet Gede at the Grand Cemetery in Port-au-Prince. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
Dozens of worshipers congregate around the black cross of the Baron, the first man to die there. Any wish or petition asked for on this day, Fet Gede, will be considered. People leave offerings of food, flowers, rum and candles. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
A black hen is buried alive by a Houngan in tribute to Baron Samdi and Maman Brigit at the Grand Cemetery of Port-au-Prince, Haiti during Fet Gede. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll
A man, dressed in black and purple, holds a sacred doll and staff at the Grand Cemetery of Port-au-Prince, Haiti during Fet Gede. Fet Gede, or Fete Ghede, is a Haitian Vodun celebration of ancestors that culminates on November 1st and 2nd. AztlanPhoto /Peter Eversoll

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Fet Gede (also, spelled Fete Ghede or Guédé is a celebration of death and, conversely, life held in Vodou communities on November 2nd, although festivities around the Gede last into the month. It is very similar to “Dia de los Muertos” in both its connection to embracing the after-life, but also in its roots of colonized peoples subverting the forced Catholic conversion through integrating non-Catholic beliefs into established Catholic celebrations. However, it is very different in practice. The celebration is a time for giving appreciation to the Gede, who protect the dead, and to feast in honor of ancestors.

Port-au-Prince’s Grand Cemetery comes alive with Vodouists leaving tribute and incarnating Iwa, or spirits. Starting at dawn, devotees arrive to prepare the site by repainting crosses, lighting candles, and making offerings to the Barons, the Maman and other Gede, who arrive throughout the morning. The order of Iwa, including the Barons, Maman and the Gede are complex and rich in power and symbology that deserves more than just a quick summary.

The Barons and Maman represent the first man and woman buried in the cemetery and the other Gede generally act as playful figures who have fun with visitors (both alive and dead,) and some serve as soothsayers and conduits between the here and the underworld. To prove their ability to connect with the afterlife, incarnated Gede will drink Pima (raw rum spiced with 21 goat peppers,) or rub it in their eyes and genitals, others will pierce themselves with pins or speak in tongues.